Welcome! This page is home to a project to make the standard of every NPA-recognized pigeon breed available and easily compiled for those wishing to investigate certain breeds or learn the standard of a breed that they keep or want to keep. As accessibility is such a barrier to fancy pigeon breeding, this aims to make the hobby just a bit more accessible for those without local clubs or the money to spend on the book of standards.

Progress: 5/242 Standards

Navigation:

• Form Breeds
• Wattle Breeds
• Croppers and Pouters
• Color Pigeons
• Owls and Frills
• Tumblers, Rollers, and High-Flyers
• Trumpeter Breeds
• Structure Breeds
• Syrian Breeds
• Doves
• Extinct Breeds

Notes:

Some of these link to publically available breed standards on club websites to both support pigeon clubs and avoid unnecessary work.

Use CTRL+F if you're having trouble finding a breed.

(Quick note: If you believe any of these breeds are not extinct and/or know a breeder of them who is still breeding purebreds, please don't hesitate to contact me. This list is primarily for "aw :(" reasons, I would hate to list a breed as extinct when they're just very rare)

Ptarmigan Pigeon (a breed similar in type to the Frillback of the day (1920-40) with similar frilling to the Syrian Curled Dewlap)American Giant Crest (?) (Am. Mini Crests are still around, but rare. I have seen no evidence of the Giant version still existing in its purebred form)Friesland Runt/Frizzled Pigeon (Frillback look-alike with what is described as a more extreme factor that doesn't curl the feathers as well and hinders flight. It is differentiated from silky.)

Diamond Dove

This page is a WIP

Ringneck Dove

There are several things to be considered in judging doves. The dove can be extremely tame. Its only means of defense is to try to escape from what it may consider as harmful, and will struggle to accomplish it. It is a well known fact that the wild dove can and will molt a lot of feathers instantly and try to slip from its captor's hands, leaving him with a handful of feathers. This may also happen with the domestic dove, tamed or not. So it is suggested, DO NOT handle them more than necessary.
Always move slowly about to catch the bird. A fast move disturbs the entire group and it becomes more difficult to handle any of them. Likewise, wearing bright clothing will have a similar effect.
This standard is offered with a viewpoint as a guide to judge all Ringneck Doves (Streptopelia risoria) and is not to be construed as universal for all doves

General Conditions: Since the dove, by its very nature, is a fast flyer, it should have, when at rest on a perch or the floor, a racy, streamlined and alert look to its carriage and body. Feathering should be smooth and tight over the entire body. Feet and legs should be free of feathering, clean, and the skin shiny and bright. A healthy bird never sits hunched up, eyes closed and feathers rumpled. The body should be firm and solid.

Posture: The stance should be roughly at a forty-five-degree angle when the bird is standing quietly. The tail may touch the door of the judging coop and not crouching. In this position the dove should be standing approximately six inches high and about ten to eleven inches long, from beak tip to the end of the tail.

Head: It should be a little long rather than short but not flat-headed, but with a smooth round curve. There should be a gradual break at the beak and graceful curve to the top of the head, then a graceful curve down the back neckline with no protruding feathers. The gullet should have a smooth and continual curve.

Eyes: These may vary in color according to the color marking of the bird. Example: the Fawn will have orange eyes; the White, orange with a reddish tint; the Pied dove will have black eyes, often called "bull" eyes. The Wild dove will have orange eyes sometimes darker than the Fawn. Albinos (true) will have pink eyes. All doves will have very fine slate-colored eye cere. The location of the eye should be very near the center of the head.

Beak: It should be long, short being undesirable, and even with the eye. Fawn doves will have a very dark beak, Wild almost black, Peach lighter, and White will have a flesh colored beak, while the Pied will have a light colored beak with a dark stain on the tip. There should be very little wattle protrusion on the beak of any dove.

Neck: A shorter neck is more desirable than a long, rangy one, tapering from the body to the head in a shallow, smooth curve. No frill feathers on the nape of the neck. On the Ringneck dove, the ring should start right below the eye and continue around the back of the neck to just below the other eye. On all colored doves this ring should be bordered by a fine line of white feathers. Some White doves will also show a semblance of this ring in white feathers, which may be somewhat at variation with the smooth pattern of the rest of the neck feathering.

Body: The body should be up to ten or eleven inches in length overall from beak tip to the end of the tail, giving a long look rather than short. The widest part of the body should be across the wing butts, gracefully tapering to one feather width in the tail. There should be no bulging in the chest area, no ill feathers, no wing butts protruding to break the smooth general curving of any part of the body conformation. In general the body should be well proportioned and nicely streamlined to present a pleasing appearance to the eye. The bird should be fully feathered and free of vermin, dirt, and feather lice. Feathers should be tight and close to the body. Care must be used in handling the bird to avoid feather loss and damage. Color of feathers to be in accordance with the accepted standard.

Wings: Wings should be closely folded against the body with the coverts well overlapping the back and with no sideboards sticking up to mar the smooth covering on the back. The wing, when outstretched should not be pointed but should be slightly rounded at the extreme end. When it is folded against the body, the wing tip should be approximately two to three inches from the end of tail and not drag below it. Flight feathers should be at least ten on each wing, after a full molt.

Legs: Legs should be short and sturdy, bright red in color and free of any feathers or sign of leg mites. When the bird stands at ease, the feet should be slightly extended forward as if it is ready to take off. From the side view, the legs should be parallel.

Rump: This should be almost straight with no hump to mar the smooth line of the body contour from the nape of the neck to the end of the tail.

Tail: It should have twelve strong feathers, extending beyond the wing tips by two to three inches. Split tails are not desirable.

Silky: The body of the Silky dove is like any dove of the Ringneck variety; the only difference being the feathering, and that sideboards are acceptable. The inner web of the feather is connected to the feather shaft, but the outer web is not, causing the Silky effect.

Tufted: The body of the (nasal) Tufted dove should be proportionate to all other areas of the Ringneck standard except for the Tuft. The Tuft should begin directly above the center of the eyes on the top of the skull. The feathers of the tuft should grow forward toward the beak. The tuft should be uniform, even and symmetrical from all angles (front, above, and sides). The Tuft can vary from rolling down the fore skull of the bird toward the break to fanning out vertically between the eyes. The feathers of the Tuft may cover the bird's nose. The feathers of the Tuft should be 1/2 cm to 1 cm in length.

Crested: The body of the (rear) Crested dove should be proportionate to all other areas of the Ringneck standard except for the crest. The Crest should be a vertical peak along the back of the skull and begin on the back of the neck just above the neck ring. There the feathers should begin to curl upward toward the head. The curling or creating should continue up the back of the neck in an unbroken line toward to pinnacle of the Crest on the back skull. The pinnacle of the Crest should be even with the center of the eye. The Crest should appear even, uniform, and symmetrical from all angles (front, above, and sides). The feathers of the Crest should be 1 1/2 cm from the back of the skull itself.
The feather mutation classes for the showing of Ringneck Doves will consist of: Tufted Ringneck (all colors) & Crested Ringneck (all colors). Also Silky Tufted (any color) and Silky Crested (any color) will be grouped with and judged against other silkies.

• Doves
• Home

Frillback

Recognized Colors:

Self: White, Black, Recessive Red and YellowPattern: Recessive Red and Yellow in Mottle, Rosewing, or Whiteside.Grizzle: Red, Yellow, Blue, SilverShield Marked: Red, Yellow, Blue Black Bar, Silver Dun Bar, Mealy Ash Red Bar, Ash Cream BarARC: Any Rare ColorARCP: Any Rare Color Pattern
Recognition Procedures For New Colors or Patterns: There must be at least three (3) exhibitors entering Frillbacks within each color group or pattern. They must be entered in three (3) of five (5) AFC district shows (per year) for a period of three (3) years. Each year the judging scores must increase with proper progress.
At the completion of this process the Color Committee will present the request for consideration to the AFC Master Judges for proper genetics and markings for review, as appropriate.

Origin: Home unknown, probably from the Middle East. The breed is mentioned in literature of the 17th century. In the first half of the 18th century there was isolated breeding in England and Germany. Often France or the Netherlands is mentioned as the home of the white color. The red and blue grizzle evolved in Austria and Germany. Today the breeding is widespread in Europe. The white crested has been present in the United States since 1900; the colored varieties were first imported from Europe in 1951.

General Impression: The type is that of a strong wide breasted medium high-stationed Field Pigeon. The plumage is somewhat loose. The main characteristic or distinctive feature is the curled feather of the wing shield.

Size: Slightly larger than most color pigeon breeds, having larger wings and a longer tail. The length of wing and tail feathers to be in proportion to the rest of the body size.

Head: Medium large slightly arched. Shell crested and plainhead are present in all colors. The following is the point breakdown of 15 point areas:
Crested: Beak and Wattle, 1; Eye, 3; Head (Shape), 1; Shell Crest, 8; = 15 ptsPlainhead: Beak and Wattle, 2; Eye, 3: Head (Shape) 10; = 15 pts
Plainhead: The head should be medium large, but in proportion to the size of the body. The shape should be slightly oval with a well rounded forehead. There should be a definite stop of the forehead at the wattle. There should not be any flat areas of the head.

Shell Crest: Shell shaped, positioned upon the back of the head, high and erect, full with feather, thick and have small rosettes on side of the crest. The crest feathers should stand straight up, not hugging the head, and be even across the base.

Eyes: Not large, located in a direct line with the beak. Red or orange colored iris is desired in all colors and patterns except shield marked. The shield marked pattern should have bull or black eye on all colors. Pearl, cracked, gravel eyes are major faults.

Beak: The beak is long and slender, held straight out, curved on the tip, frequently the upper beak is slightly longer than the lower beak. Beak color is dark on red and blue grizzle; black on blacks; light on yellow and horn on silver; flesh colored on whites, recessive red and yellow, mottles, rosewing, and whiteside. Wattle is thin, small and covered with white powder on all colors.

Body: Strong in appearance.

Neck: Full, protrudes from the shoulders. Has very little throat but well cut away. Feather creases a fault.

Breast: Broad, nicely plump, somewhat set forward, protruding.

Back: Wide across the shoulders, slightly arched and sloped.

Legs: Medium long, with muscular appearance, powerful.

Tail: Wide feathers, rather long and borne relatively loose. The tail should not exceed over the width of two feathers. Almost, but not dragging on the ground. Each feather must have a definitive wave or wrinkle.

Wing: Wide wing shield. The body is well covered. Wings to be closed over the back and rest on the tail. Wing tips should not cross. Wing butts closely aligned with the body. Each wing feather must have a definitive wave or wrinkle. Wing and tail feathers should not be excessively long in length.

Muff: Muff or foot feathering is preferred, two to three inches in length, full and forming an arc shape. Feathers of the hock and foot feathering must have a definitive wave or wrinkle, the feather ending with a curl or frill. Extremely long muff is a fault.

Frill (Curls): Most important factor in judging. The feathers should not be so fluffy or straight that a well-defined curl can’t be formed. The curl should cover the entire wing shield, dense on the shoulders, so that no open areas stand out. Curl should be completely closed in the bar area. The last row of curl, toward the tail, should run the entire length of the wing, and be long in length, thick, wide and the feather ending should form a closed curl ending with a round ringlet at the end. Feather curl should also be present at the ends of the foot feathers or muff and at the ends of the hock feathers. The flight feathers of the wing and tail feathers should have a definitive wave or wrinkle.
Attention: The amount, size, closed curl, curl ringlet, total wing and curl coverage cannot be stressed enough. Remember the breed’s name, FRILLBACK.

Disqualifications: Disease, physical deformity of any kind, poor condition, any artificial alteration whatsoever or added appearance other than natural growth, or faking in any manner, all above at the judge’s discretion.

Various Colors:

White: Pure white, without yellow tinge
-- Color faults: Black or bull eyes, not a clear beak color, colored feathers.
Black: Jet-black color with as much beetle green luster as possible over the entire plumage. The major goal is to obtain an even shade over all the body, flights and tail.
-- Color faults: Grayish brown or dull color, flight feathers dull compared to other black areas, visible bars, tail bars, light colored beak.
Recessive Red: Self red. An even shade throughout of clear, rich, bright red. Beak flesh colored.
-- Color faults: Blue or gray tints in the red.
Recessive Yellow: Self yellow. An even shade throughout of clear rich bright yellow. Beak flesh colored.
-- Color faults: Blue or gray tints in the yellow.
Shield Marked: All colors to have a white body with the shield being colored. Must have colored secondaries and 7-10 white primaries. Note: Up to 12 white primaries are tolerated along with small amounts of colored feathers in the thigh.
Pattern: Recessive red or yellow self with patterned wing shield
-- Rosewing - Self colored bird with 8 to 20 white feathers on the wing shoulders
-- Mottle - Self colored bird with the wing shield mixed with white feathers and half colored feathers
-- Whiteside - Self colored bird with the wing shield entirely white
Red Grizzle: Rich red. Head very light grizzle color, without whole white feathers or splashing. Neck, breast, and bars must be rich red. The flight feathers, when closed, should present a white appearance, but when opened out the inner web of each feather should exhibit a rich red grizzle. The tail should have a clear white appearance. A slight reddish color is permissible in the rump. Wingshield light to dark grizzle.
-- Color faults: Bluish breast or rump and color in the feathers of the closed flights and tail, light beak, overall light red color.
Yellow Grizzle: Color and markings are the same as the red grizzle, but the ground color should be a beautiful rich yellow.
-- Color faults: Dark colored beak, any color in the feathers of the closed flights, tail, and rump.
Blue Grizzle: Blue grizzle appears in both light and dark blue. The neck is darker metallic green than the breast and shield. The wing bar is dark gray-black to entirely black. The tail and wings are blue, with a darker bar. The head, neck, and wing shield feathers should be blue with part of the feathers being white, which forms the sprinkling of white or grizzle pattern. Basic blue shade should be the same wherever on the bird. Flight feathers should not have any red tone or any white parts. Any red feathers or rust at all on the wing shield or bar should not be present.
-- Color faults: Too much white on the head, neck, or flight feathers, weak shade of blue, and rust or red on the wing shield.
Silver Grizzle: The dilute of blue grizzle. Color and markings are the same as the blue grizzle, but the ground color should be a beautiful fawn color with no tendency toward a creamy color. The wing and tail bars shall be dun. Beak horn color.
-- Color faults: Too much white on the head, neck or flight feathers, weak shade of silver, and rust or red on the wing shield.

Scale of Points:

Head - Plainhead, Crest, Beak, Wattle: 15 pts
Color - Luster, Shade, Richness, Markings: 15 pts
Body - Neck, Breast, Back, Legs, Wings, Tail: 10 pts
Curl - Coverage, Length, Ending, Closing, Ringlet, Curl: 50 pts
Muff - Length, Hock, Shape, Feather curl: 10 pts

Total: 100 pts

• Structure Breeds
• Home

American Giant Rumbler

Origin: The American Giant Rumbler Pigeon was created by H. Eric Buri and Wesley L. Conover of the USA in the early fifties and sixties. Both men are National Pigeon Association Master Breeders and Hall of Famers. On June 3, 1984, the Canadian Pigeon Fanciers Association recognized the Giant Rumbler as a breed of pigeon. The National Pigeon Association recognized the Giant Rumbler as a breed as of January 19, 1985 at the Portland, Oregon national show.

Age: This standard of perfection is written to cover the adult Giant Rumbler. The Giant Rumber does not fully mature until the age of three years and allowance should be made for young Giant Rumblers.

Plumage: Clean, neat, full, well developed, smooth texture feathers. Hard feathering such as the flying homer is not wanted in the Giant Rumber. Plumage to be especially plush on the head and neck.

Classification: Classes will be provided for Old Cocks, Old Hens, Young Cocks, and Young Hens in each color class

Judging: When Giant Rumblers are being carried to the judging area, the judge must leave the area. When the class is ready to be judged, they will be notified.

Band: The "Rumbler" band put out by the NPA and sold by the American Giant Rumbler Club is correct band for all Giant Rumbers.

Disqualification: Dragging and cross wings, tail held more than two inches (5 centimeters) high, more than one band, sickness, disease, generally poor condition, or deformity. Excessive plucking removing so many feathers as to leave a bald spot or the impression of one on a bird that otherwise finished the moult. Any means to attempt to deceive the judge. Too small (judge's discretion).

Head: Big, powerful, massive look, long full oval. No flatness at the top of skull. Top skull must be well developed as well as back skull. Massive frontal with good forward sweep. Good width between eyes. From the front the eyes should not be visible. Very full, soft cheeks desirable. The feathering should be very plush and full.

Beak: Medium in length, wide and thick, the upper mandible being slightly longer than lower. The beak setting of the Giant Rumbler is slightly below horizontal.

Wattle: Good texture, neat and of equal size. Free of coarseness. Close fitting so as to appear an integral part of the beak.

Eyes: Bright and clear, showing health. Set well in head, fully feathered all around. Cut one point for off colored eyes.

Eye Cere: Neat and of good texture. Free of coarseness. Ideally hidden among the skull and cheek feathers.

Neck: Full towards the breast, appearing powerful. Throat full but free from gullet. Neck feathers to cover wing butts and well down the back. Neck creases add to the beauty of the Giant Rumbler and are required. Should show slight arch in the back of the neck. Cut two points for absent neck creases.

Breast: Broad, powerful, chesty appearance. Firm, deep, and fully developed. The breast is carried a little high as though proud. Breast feathers to cover wing butts.

Body & Keel: Body deep, solid and extra full, strong and powerfully built. Wedge shaped from the top view. Keel to be straight, long, and very deep with muscular flesh to cover it well. Crooked keel cut in points depending on severity.

Wing: In proportion to size, and deep to follow depth of the body. Held close to the body. Feathers to meet and cover over the back. Wing butts to be covered by neck and breast feathers. Dragging and cross wings to be disqualified. Cut in points for sails.

Back: Wedge shaped from top view, medium, very broad at the shoulders. Shall show strength throughout and carry that strength through the rump and tail coverts. Cut in points for open back.

Tail: Carried in line with back. Length to be in proportion of size. Wedge shape of Giant Rumbler to govern width. Tail should be 1 1/2 to 2 feathers wide, not a whip tail. Standing in a natural position the tail should be carried just above floor. If tail held more than two inches high (5 centimeters) it is a disqualification. However the judge must allow the Giant Rumbler a period of time to settle down as many Giant Rumblers will drop the tail to the proper position after they settle down.

Legs & Feet: Should be thick, very muscular and showing great strength. Set well apart and straight. Feet well spread and straight, free of any feathers. Thighs to be well feathered, these feathers to carry back and blend well with undercarriage feathers.

Size: Giant Rumblers should be as large as possible and well proportioned. Type and proportions to be more important than size alone. Giant Rumblers will show variation in size, it will be up to the judge's discretion if a Giant Rumbler should be disqualified for being too small.

Type: Type is the combination of the Giant Rumbler's conformation, station, carriage, and profile. Should station at an upright angle with eye almost directly above the ball of the foot.

Color: Standard colored Giant Rumblers to be cut one to ten points for color when judged in their color classes. These ten points to be floating and not upset the original 100 point total. Color to reach as deeply as possible down the feather on all colored feathers.

White: Pure White, bull eye, beet red eye cere, pinkish white beak and toenails. May show sheen on neck.Black: Deep solid black with a beetle green sheen, orange eyes, gray eye cere, black beak and toenails.Dun: Good even shade of Dun, orange eyes, horn color eye cere, beak, and toenailsRed: Rich deep even shade of Mahogany red throughout. Neck color should show more sheen and pinkish luster, orange eyes, red eye cere, light horn beak and toenails.Yellow: Deep rich yellow throughout, neck showing opalescent blending with golden hues. Orange eyes, red eye cere, light horn beak and toenails.Blue: Good even shade of blue, neck feathers to be a darker shade with a beetle green sheen. Wings to show two well defined black bars. The tail should be tipped with a single bar to match those on the wings. Rump powder blue, orange eyes, gray eye cere, black beak and toenails.Silver: (Brown Bar) Silvery blue tending to a fawn color in all sections of the body. The neck feathers to be a darker shade with a brilliant metallic luster. Wings to show two dark brown well defined bars. The tail should be tipped with a single bar to match those on the wings. Soft, fawn color on rump. Pearl eyes, light gray eye cere, light horn beak and toenails.Rare A.C.: (Any Color) This class is for rare colors in Giant Rumblers such as Grizzles, Ash Red, Mealies, Silver Dun Bar, Khaki Bar, and Checks of any color. Any other rare color not mentioned must be shown in this class. When entering Giant Rumblers in a show state color. (Example: Rare A.C. Grizzle or Rare A.C. Ash Red). If eight or more of a rare color are shown, a separate class will be made.A.O.C.: (Any Other Color) This class is for standard colored Giant Rumblers with white one them anywhere. Mismarks, splashes, and Giant Rumblers with white flights must be shown in this class. (Example: whites with stained beak and toenails or eye other than bull).

Itemized Points:

Head: 10 pts
Beak: 2 pts
Wattle: 2 pts
Eyes: 2 pts
Eye Cere: 2 pts
Neck: 10 pts
Breast: 10 pts
Body & Keel: 10 pts
Wings: 8 pts
Back: 5 pts
Tail: 5 pts
Legs & Feet: 4 pts
Size: 15 pts
Type: 15 pts

Total: 100 pts

• Form Breeds
• Home

American Giant Homer

Judging Standard

Preface: This standard is a guide for evaluating the specific features as well as the total, composite quality of the Giant Homer. A fancier may well concentrate his attention on a single feature such as neck creases, back cover, or head when judging an individual bird’s value for his breeding program. A show judge, however, must concentrate his attention on the total bird the effective composite of all features of the individual bird. Further, the show judge must then rank a class of birds by a careful comparison of their differing composites of quality. This standard assigns point values to the specific features to aid the judge in estimating the importance of individual strengths and weaknesses in comparing and ranking a class of birds. A proper application of those point values eliminates the real need for a listing of outright disqualifications.
It is strongly recommended that every show judge keep this written standard as well as a copy of the 3-view standard sketch before him as a reference and guide in judging. He should leave no doubt in the minds of exhibitors that he is doing his best to understand and apply the official standard in making his decisions.

Type: The term “type” commonly refers to the combination of the bird’s conformation, station, and profile. It is clearly illustrated in the three view sketch of the ideal. In terms of show points, type is recognized and rewarded within the specific structural features of the standard. One should refer to the three view sketch of the ideal as it relates to all of the items in the written standard.

Size: Successful show birds will commonly show moderate variations in size with a range from 10″ to 11″ in height, from 9 1/2″ to 10 1/2″ in length, and from 5″ to 6″ across the wing butts. Concern for excellence in type should take preference over concern for size alone. However, excessively large or excessively small birds are both quite undesirable.

Weight: A top quality bird in good show condition will have a distinct solid feel in the hand. Looseness and fatness are undesirable qualities and will be penalized. The ideal weight of a cock is 35 ounces with a range of 30 to 40 ounces. The ideal weight of a hen is 33 ounces with a range of 28 to 38 ounces. Birds within these ranges shall be judged as equal to one another in size. Birds that are outside this standard will have points deducted under the point allotments that follow.

Head (15 pts): Head profile raising gradually and smoothly from tip of beak to above the eye, then descending in an unbroken line to the neck. Top skull showing no flatness. Top view showing good width between the eyes, narrowing smoothly toward the wattle. No sign of gullet or pinching above the wattle. No show of angularity in outline. The whole head should express strength with no sign of weakness or thinness.

Eyes (5 pts): Sharp and clear expressing alertness. Ruby red or orange in color with ruby red preferred. Gravel, pale, or cracked eyes is a serious fault. A bull or solid eye is admissible in whites or splashes. Both eyes the same color. False pearl eye acceptable in browns or khakis.

Eye Ceres (2 pts): Medium size, neat, smooth and even. May vary from dark or plum in colored birds to a flesh color and pink in whites and white splashes.

Beak (5 pts): Medium length, stout and straight. Both mandibles of nearly equal strength and substance. Set smoothly into face with no broken outline. No sign of gaping or crossed mandibles. May vary in color from dark in colored birds, to amber in red checks, to flesh color preferred in whites and permissible in white splashes.

Wattle (2 pts): Medium size, smooth in texture and free of coarseness. Should fit smoothly between head and beak. Free of warty growths at base of lower mandibles.

Neck (5 pts): Stout, medium length. Tapering gradually and smoothly from head to shoulders. No signs of neck creases or gullet.

Body Structures: A total of 36 points is allotted to the closely related body components including body, breast, back, and keel. At the same time, substantial point allotments to refinements in eyes, beak, legs, head, color, and pattern affirm the increasing status of Giant Homers as an exhibition breed with a pleasing balance of power and beauty.

Body (16 pts): Short, broad, deep, and strongly built. The body as a whole presents a smoothly tapered, wedge shaped appearance that is clearly felt in the hand. The rump is well filled and tapered and without the wideness and flatness that causes wide tails.

Back (5 pts): Flat and straight with broad shoulders tapering into a well-defined rump. Forms a line with the tail carried at about a twelve degree angle below the horizontal.

Breast (10 pts): Prominent, broad (5″ to 6″ across the wing butts). Deep and well rounded. Showing well beyond and below the wing butts.

Keel (5 pts): Deep, straight, and extended well into the rump. Rocker shaped in side view, curving slightly toward vent but maintaining good depth at rear to assure a well filled rump. Well covered with solid, muscular flesh.

Wings (10 pts): In proper proportions to length of body. Prominent and powerful through shoulders to butts, fitting closely to the body in front view. Flights resting on the tail with the two wing tips touching or nearly so. There are to be ten (10) primaries in each wing. If more than ten (10) primaries, this fault shall carry the same weight as having less than 10. Wing coverts should cover the rump smoothly and well. Primaries strong in web and quill. Entire shield of wing fitted with smooth, tight, closely overlapped feathering. No tendency for wing tips to fall below the tail or to cross over the rump. Primaries and secondaries firmly overlapped and clinging. No tendency to sideboards.

Tail (5 pts): Twelve firmly set feathers with strong web and quill. Spreads to a full fan with feathers firmly overlapped and clinging to each other with no sign of splitting. Carried well closed with feathers overlapped to give appearance of little more than one feather in width. Short, not extended over one inch beyond tips of flights. Carried at about a twelve degree angle below horizontal and a straight line with the back. Fits smoothly into a full rump cushion above and below.

Legs and Feet (5 pts): Legs medium length and set well apart into a slightly bent stance. Strong in appearance denoting thickness of bone. Thighs full and muscular. Shanks and feet free of feathers. Toes strong and straight with no improper webbing. There are to be four (4) separate, individual toes on each foot as clearly depicted on the current standard. All toes are to be uniform and properly proportioned and complete with nail. Toe nails uniform in color corresponding to that of the beak.

Show Condition (10 pts): Sound, healthy, and alert with smooth and finished feathering throughout. No dirty feathers, feet, or toe nails. Calm and poised in show cage. Handles and holds station without wildness. Not overly fat or thin. Birds with deformities should be cut in accord with the foregoing standard. Diseased birds must be removed from competition and from contact with other birds.

Color and Pattern: All colored birds are regarded as carrying ten (10) floating points which shall be cut at the discretion of the judge for faulty color or pattern within a given color class. These ten floating points are in addition to the 100 basic points established in the standard. Quality of color and pattern is disregarded in judging specials beyond best of color. See standard color classifications. Mismarked and miscolored birds should be classified and judged as set under the specifications set forth for class XIV, AOC in this standard.

Standard Cut By Points:

Head: 15 pts
Eyes: 5 pts
Eye ceres: 2 pts
Beak: 5 pts
Wattle: 2 pts
Neck: 5 pts
Body: 16 pts
Back: 5 pts
Breast: 10 pts
Keel: 5 pts
Wings: 10 pts
Tail: 5 pts
Legs and Feet: 5 pts
Show Condition: 10 pts
Color and Pattern: 10 pts

Total: 100 pts (110? it’s unclear if excellent color gets 10 extra points or if those 10 points can only be cut)

• Form Breeds
• Home

American Crest - Giant/Miniature

Beak: Light in color, stout, with smooth wattle carrying out its lines.

Throat: Very deep and full.

Crest: Neither peak nor shell, but about half way between these two, formed in such a way that you can see a hollow section where the head feathers carry out the line of the skull back into the crest with crest feathers growing up and partly around this section. In testing, you should be able to rest your finger on the bird’s skull with your finger tip snugly into the crest with crest feathers coming up around your finger. Lines of the crest should be carried on down by both the mane and chain in an unbroken line. Both peak and shell crests are to be cut to 10 points. A strong, good typed bird showing a very small or poor crest should be placed if it carries enough other points. No good typed bird is to be thrown out as long as it shows some crest.

Neck: Short, extra full, but looking real tight in feather.

Breast: Very broad, full deep showing all the power it can. The head and neck should be held back giving the bird a “chesty” look. Keel should be straight but never cut over three points. The flesh should be bulged out on either side of the keel and the breast should be wider than the depth of the bird. This does not mean that a broad shallow keeled bird should win over a deep bird, for we want both depth and breadth.

Back: Straight, giving this breed something of the Carneau type rather than that of the King. Birds should be cut for hollow back, starting from a slight swing up to a King type. But the Maltese type, those showing a sharp break, should be disqualified. Many of the best birds show a hollow back and such birds can be placed champion if they have the proper number of other points to carry it past a better backed bird.

Wings: Held high; tightly folded. Short and strong secondaries should cover the back and primaries, and be held high enough so that the birds do not show “sails” (a very bad fault). Wing butts should help the bird look broader.

Tail: Short, well folded and carrying out the lines of the bird. Feathers in the vent, abdomen, or belly region should be tight and held close to the body, carrying out the breast lines without a break, losing themselves into the lower tail coverts. Feathers on rump and upper tail coverts should also be tight and held close to the body. Wings should rest on the rump with no space between.

Legs: Tightly feathered, very muscular, and showing great strength. Not too long, set apart with plenty of breast between. Shanks should be thick, showing large bone. Toes should be well spread, looking short because of their chubbiness.

Bone: Heavy throughout this breed adding to its look of great strength.

Standard Cut By Points:

Beak, wattle, cere, eye: 10pts
Throat: 5pts
Neck: 10pts
Crest: 15 pts
Breast: 10 pts
Back: 5 pts
Keel: 3 pts
Wing and tail: 10 pts
Legs and feet: 7 pts
Feather, body, hardness of feather: 15 pts
Look of Power: 10 pts

Total: 100 pts

Comments: Bred in all colors. Cere to be deep red in all colors but can be dark in blacks and blues. No more than three points cut for off colored cere or eyes. Beak should be light in all colors but blues and blacks. Legs and feet, red. Birds should show as much breadth as possible. Those lacking either breadth of strength should be cut the full 10 points. Giant Crests to weight approximately 30-32 ounces. Miniature Crests to be approximately half the size of the Giant Crest.

• Form Breeds
• Home